A few months ago I took a front wheel to a local bike shop to get a replacement spoke fitted. I handed it over to the sales assistant and the first thing he did was look at the hub and turn the spindle. “That hub’s absolutely buggered mate” he quickly concluded, referring to the apparent stiffness as it turned. He didn’t recognise that the hub was a dynamo, and the friction is there to generate electrical power as the wheel turns.
If I took this wheel to be fixed at a bike shop on the continent, the shop attendant would recognise it right away; in fact it would be unusual for a city bike not to have lights powered by a dynamo.
Dynamos were fitted to many bicycles sold in the UK between the 1930s and 1970s. This was thanks mostly to innovations by Sturmey Archer, but really it was the only way to power lights at the time – battery technology wasn’t good enough to do the job. But by the late 70s, racing bikes were heavily marketed to non-racing, everyday cyclists, and the myth of ‘lighter is better’ was born. Subsequently, a heavy dynamo and lights became an increasingly rare sight on new bikes. During the 80s, the cycling boom was based around the mountain bike, and again practicalities like dynamo powered lights were done away with.
Much has been written about the legacy of the 70s and 80s on today’s cycling culture in the UK (see Robert Penn’s book It’s All About the Bike), and my experience in the bike shop further demonstrates how the UK bike industry is still very much based around sports and leisure cycling, rather than everyday utility cycling. New cyclists who go into one of these shops with a bit of money to spend are likely to come out equipped for a day ofcycling in a hilly forest, with a full suspension mountain bike and a bag full of Gore cycling gear.
But back to the issue of bicycle lights, it’s true that dynamo powered lights had a reputation for being unreliable, especially those powered by a bottle dynamo. In the 90s, as LED technology improved, the ‘blinky’ revolutionised bike lighting and is now a ubiquitous sight in UK cities at night. These lights tend to be light-weight, battery powered, and quickly removable; this might seem like a list of convenient features, but in my experience the opposite is true.
The fact that they’re easily removeable means they’re easily stolen. Every time you park up your bike, you go through the routine of unclipping your lights and putting them in a bag or pocket, and go through the reverse process when you return. Except in my case, I spend five minutes routing through my bag or pockets trying to figure out where I put them, occassionally finding that they’ve switched themselves on and are wasting battery power (I once walked into a coffee shop with a rear LED still flashing in my breast pocket… I looked like E.T.).
The fact that nearly all LED lights available on the high street are quick-release is a legacy of the sports cycling boom of the 80s and 90s. They’re a bit like the quick release mudguards that road cyclists use, where a practical item is only added to the bike when absolutely necessary to keep the bike as light as possible. When you think about it, there’s absolutely no reason for a bicycle light to be quick-release for most city cyclists, except maybe to make it convenient to change the batteries. Which leads me to my next point.
The fact that they’re inexpensive and battery powered means that they’re enormously wasteful things. Batteries are harmful to the environment, both in the processes used in their manufacture and their disposal. Also, these lights don’t seem to be particularly weather resistant, meaning the batteries can easily corrode, causing the light to fail; and because they’re cheap to buy, it’s more convenient to simply buy a new light than fix and re-use the old one. I’ve built up quite a collection of half-working LED lights over the last few years, to the point where I thought there had to be a better way!
That better way is the way it was done 70 years ago, by using a small amount of your energy to generate electricity to power lights. Couple this idea with the latest LED technology and we have the perfect lighting solution!
The best type of dynamo to use is the hub type that’s built into the wheel. While bottle dynamos have improved over the years, hub dynamos are far more reliable. Their price starts at around £35 for something like a Shimano N30, however the more you pay, the less drag the dynamo creates as the wheel turns, and the more weather resistant the hub will be. The Shimano N72 or N80 might be a better choice if you’re willing to spend a bit more, and of course you would have to add the cost of a good bike shop building it into your wheel. The best (and most expensive) dynamos are those produced by German companies Schmidt and Supernova; these models are the most efficient, and Supernova’s latest model has a switch to disengage the dynamo magnets during the day for a drag-free hub.
In terms of lights, again Schmidt and Supernova manufacture the best and brightest dynamo powered LED lights. More affordable are those made by Busch & Muller. Something to look out for when choosing dynamo lights is to make sure both front and rear lights have a stand-light, meaning that they have a power reserve for when you are stopped at junctions. Also, some models have ambient light sensors which turn the lights on automatically when it goes dark; this simple feature makes bike lights completely hassle free – you never have to worry about batteries or switches and you know your lights are always going to be on when they need to be.
If you already have a rack mounted on your bike, it probably has the appropriate holes to bolt-on a permanently mounted rear light, and the front light tends to be bolted onto the fork crown. Admittedly, fitting and wiring dynamo powered lights can be a bit of a pain, but once it’s done, you can just forget about your lights, which is something you can never do with battery powered LEDs.
To conclude, dynamo powered lights tend to be extremely bright and rear dynamo lights always have a large reflector built into them (a legal requirement in Germany); this really is enough for you to be seen by other road users at night. A good lighting system makes cycling a hassle-free activity you can do without special protective clothing and additional gear.
I’m writing with regard to your Ghost Street road safety campaign website, specifically the pages about pedestrians and cycling.
My question is how are we supposed to encourage more people to cycle or walk if campaigns like this scare them away from it? A safer environment for cyclists and pedestrians is one in which fewer people commute by car, and more people choose to cycle or walk instead. The problem is that people choose not to cycle or walk BECAUSE of the dangers presented by the number of cars on the road and lack of adequate infrastructure (especially for cyclists who often have to share the road with motorists). This is a vicious circle that won’t be broken by this sort of ill-conceived campaign that only perpetuates the idea that cycling (or being a pedestrian) is a dangerous activity.
Furthermore, this is a classic case of a campaign addressing the symptom and not the cause. A recent study in Australia has shown that in the majority of accidents involving cyclists and motorists, it is the driver who is at fault. In the scenarios depicted in your campaign, the onus is on the young people to protect themselves from cars, rather than on the motorist to drive with due care and attention for other road users (whether that is cyclists, or pedestrians crossing the road).
Also, I recognise that the use of shock tactics works in getting people to change their behaviour, for example, drink-driving campaigns have been successful in making drinking and driving a socially unacceptable activity, but with this campaign it seems out of place and only serves to discourage people from cycling or walking.
I’m concerned about the negative effect this campaign may have on other campaigns that are trying encourage people to cycle or walk. Surely public money would be better spent on improving Newcastle’s cycling infrastructure and on campaigns that emphasise the positive benefits of cycling and walking.
Matt Jones
Update: Thanks to Tom for providing me with a link the council’s press release about the campaign.
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Recently, Northumbria Police had a stand at Newcastle Central Station giving away free RFID tags for your bike. The idea is that you register with the Immobitag website and enter the ID number printed on the tag. You then push the tag down the seat tube where it can’t be removed, at least not easily.
Then, if the bike is stolen and recovered by the police, they scan the bike for the tag and contact you to reunite you with your beloved machine. Notice that there are two conditions that have to be met before the tag becomes useful, although the police claim it also works as a deterrent if you place stickers on the bike to warn would-be thieves that it’s tagged.
At first I thought it’s a pretty good idea, and the police officer I spoke to seemed keen to install it on my bike there and then. I declined that but took the tag anyway because I thought about installing it on a different bike. However, after thinking about it during my cycle home, I decided not to install it.
Firstly, I don’t think it’s an effective deterrent if you warn theives about the tag with stickers. Once stolen, I expect a hammer, an implement long enough to go down the seat tube and some brute force would allow thieves to remove the tag quite easily.
Secondly, adding an RFID tag to your bike means that your bike is registered on a database whether it is stolen or not. Of course, I don’t expect an Orwellian situation where there are RFID scanners on every street corner tracking your every move, however I do believe that giving your bike an identity compromises your freedom and privacy as a cyclist, just a little.
There’s a better solution to the bike theft problem, one that doesn’t compromise your freedom, and it’s to lock your bike more securely in the first place. Most cases of bike theft result because the bike isn’t locked at all, is locked the wrong way or is locked with a poor quality lock that can be cut through easily.
Read Sheldon Brown’s lock strategy page for information on how to lock your bike securely.
I recently bought a Busch & Muller E-Werk hub dynamo powered supply unit to power and charge up devices while I’m cycling (I haven’t actually built the bike I’m going to attach it to yet, but that’s a different story!).
It’s a small device that plugs into a dynamo hub (in my case a Schmidt SON) and converts the AC output to DC at adjustable voltages. It comes with a large number of cables, including a variety of standard USB plugs and DC charger plugs that allow you to power your phone or charge up a dSLR battery while on the move.
At £140, it’s not cheap. But then, being made in Germany, this is not a device made by under-paid, over-worked employees in a far-east electronics factory, and for the time saved while not hanging around wall sockets waiting for things to charge, it’s very much worth it.
I’ll write more about it once I’ve got it up and running!
Late last year, I decided to build myself a single-speed mountain bike. There are a number of reasons for this:
- I rely on one bike as my main form of transport. If it breaks or I need to do some work on it, I haven’t got another bike to ride.
- In my experience, some staff in bike shops aren’t very helpful, give the wrong advice or are too busy to help you. I decided it was time to learn how to build and maintain bikes myself. I’m sure that there are many very good bike shops around, just not in my area.
- My other bike, a Charge Tap, is a great street bike but it’s not so great in wintery conditions. I wanted to build a simple, low maintenance bike that I didn’t have to worry about too much while riding in the winter months.
So, having recently finished building it, I thought I’d share what I’ve learned with the hope of helping others thinking about doing the same. I should add I’ve been hugely inspired by the late Sheldon Brown and his excellent online resource for bike maintainers.
Frame & Forks
I wanted a light-weight frame on which to base my bike. There are plenty of frames for sale on eBay, but finding a decent one that’s suitable for a single-speed can be tricky. Single-speed and fixed wheel bikes have horizontal dropouts to allow the back wheel to move backward to keep the chain tensioned. However, unlike vintage road frames popular with fixie and single-speed riders, many newer mountain bike frames have vertical dropouts, meaning that you can’t tension the chain without a tensioning device (essentially a jockey wheel and a spring that hangs below the chain stay).
As I wanted to keep the bike as simple as possible, I decided to look for a frame with horizontal dropouts instead. There are two options here; you either look for a newer low-end frame (many Raleigh and Peugeot frames from the 90s have horizontal dropouts) or an older but better quality frame from the late eighties and early nineties (early frames from Specialized and Trek had horizontal dropouts). If you’ve got a bit of money to spend on a new frame, manufacturers like Surly and On One make new frames designed specifically single-speeds and bikes with hub gears.
I managed to find a 1993 Specialized Rockhopper frame on eBay that came with forks, headset, stem and seatpost, all for £16 (although not including postage!). It’s best to try and find a frameset as complete as possible, mainly because the steerer tube on the forks is cut to fit the headtube and headset, which can be an arbitrary length depending on the size of the frame. Also worth noting is that headtubes either fit a 1″ or a 1 1/8″ steerer tube; older frames tend to fit a 1″ threaded fork.
Wheels
I bought a pair of second-hand but hardly used 26″ Vuelta wheels complete with shimano cassette hub, chunky tyres and tubes, for about £25. To convert to a single-speed bike, you’ll need a conversion kit, which is a single sprocket and a set of spacers which replace the cogs (cassette) on the rear wheel. The conversion is quite an easy job with the right tools: a lock-ring remover, chain whip and adjustable spanner.
Gearing
With a single speed bike, it’s important to get the gear ratio right depending on the terrain you’ll be cycling on. My bike is intended as a street bike with occassional off-road use on bridle paths. If you look up gear ratios for a single-speed mountain bike, many suggest a starting point of 2:1. The sprocket that came with the conversion kit was a 16 tooth, so to get this ratio I would need a 32 tooth chainring. This ratio is rather low; for every rotation of the crank, the rear wheel goes round twice. It’s good for hill climbing, but not so good for riding on the flat as you’d be pedalling like crazy. So I decided to get a 38 tooth chainring with the 16 tooth sprocket, this gives a high enough gear to cruise along at a moderate speed, but low enough to get up those hills… unless it’s really steep.
Bottom Bracket
Some second-hand frames are advertised with an old bottom bracket already installed. While this may be tempting to save installing one yourself, it’s really best to get a frame without a bottom bracket. You don’t know what state it’s in, and worse, it might be seized to the frame leading to potential thread damage when you try and unstick it.
With the right tools, dealing with bottom brackets is quite straightforward, as they’re mostly sealed units that screw into the frame (although do note that the right side of the bottom bracket tends to be reverse threaded). There are a few different types that need to be considered. I decided to go for a standard square tapered bottom bracket, which some now consider to be the old fashioned type, ISIS having become the more popular standard. There’s also Octalink, Hollowtech or X-type bottom brackets, which seem to be an attempts at manufacturer lock-in to BB/Crank combinations.
Square tapered bottom brackets are cheaper but very robust, and fine for my requirements so I went for a Shimano UN54. Most frames take either 68mm or 73mm width bottom bracket depending on the width of the shell. The length of the spindle varies as well; for a mountain bike, you shouldn’t go too far wrong with 118mm. However it’s worth checking which length spindle is most suitable for your choice of crankset.
Crankset
Most right-hand crank arms are either all-in-one, where the crank arm and chainring are one unit, or you can buy the crank arms separately and bolt on a chainring. I recommend the latter option because it allows you to be a bit more flexible about the gearing. Also, this is the one component of the bike where I didn’t scrimp on second-hand parts because they need to be strong and reliable, especially on a single-speed where up hill riding requires a lot of force to be put on them. Most crank arms connect to the chainring with either 4 or 5 bolts at a varying diameter called BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter). You just need to make sure that the BCD matches on the crank arm and chainring. For most mountain bikes with a 4 arm crank, the BCD is 104mm. I bought some FSA El-toro crank arms for about £25 and bolted on an FSA 38 tooth chainring for about £15.
Chain
I went for a Charge Masher half-link chain which is designed specifically for single speed bikes. The half-links allow a little more flexibility when both adjusting the length of the chain and positioning the rear wheel to keep the chain at the correct tension.
Brakes
Originally the frame would have had cantilever brakes on it, but I decided to fit vee brakes instead. I thought these were a straight replacement for cantilevers because the frame bosses are the same for both. However, while installing them, I had a problem when routing the cable through to the back brakes. Frames designed for cantilevers have braze-ons that ensure the cable drops down between the brakes. This is no good for vee brakes, as the cable enters the brakes from the left side. So, I had to buy a clamp-on cable stop that allowed the cable to enter the brakes at the right angle.
Epilogue
So I’ve glossed over a few things, mainly the outlay on the tools needed to build the bike, and the other bits and bobs like pedals, handlebars and the £2 bell. In total, it probably cost me about £160 to build. You could ask me why I didn’t simply buy an old but complete Specialized Rockhopper for about £50 and convert it to a single speed. Yes I could have done that, but I wouldn’t have learned as much and it wouldn’t have been so much fun!
